Travel: Day 7 - Australia - Trails and Tribulations

One of the advantages of teaching at a small liberal arts institution is the freedom to design and offer courses that are close to one's heart. 

In January 2011, I taught Tropical Ecology  and, for one of the class activities, I took a group of students on a 10 day trip to Puerto Rico. (Click here to read about the trip to Puerto Rico). 

In January 2013, I taught Ecology of Australia and, naturally, it entailed a field trip to Australia! What follows is a travelogue of our adventures together, the sights we saw, the things we did, and the lessons we learned while exploring a land far removed from home.

(You can the previous posts in this thread here).

Apart from being a campus offering on-site classes, James Cook University has numerous satellite locations where research opportunities abound.  One of them is the Daintree Rainforest Observatory, managed by Site Manager Peter Byrnes.

About 140km (~ 90miles) north of Cairns, the Observatory is in a section of protected rainforest adjacent to the Daintree National Park. The Daintree rainforest lays claim to having the highest biodiversity of plant and animal species anywhere in Australia. The site is flanked to the west by coastal ranges rising to more than 1400m and by the Coral Sea to the east.  The proximity of the coral reef to a rainforest makes it a fairly unique situation.

We took the Captain Cook Highway out of Cairns, heading north in a van.This winding ocean road is as you would expect it to be - the treeline frequently opens up to reveal great vistas and lookouts along the way

(Victoria Vollmer 2013)

 The drive is littered with small beaches that were inviting us to stop but had to be saved for some other (undecided) date in the future.

(Sandra 2013)

(Note: In order to conserve space on the blog and make it easier to scroll through, I am condensing how much of  the post is displayed.  To read the rest of it, simply click on the "Click here for the rest of my jaywalk" link below).
A few miles north of the town of Mossman (more on that at the end of the day) is the Daintree River ferry which is the shortest (and safest) way across the Daintree river.  It is also the only road access to the Cape Tribulation area.  At any given time, about 40 cars can be ferried across the river in 5 minutes.

(Kinsley Shoup 2013)

Further along, we followed a rudimentary map to get to the Daintree Rainforest Observatory.

(Sandra 2013)

The backdrop for the Rainforest Observatory is the oddly named Mount Sorrow.  Lieutenant James Cook named both Mount Sorrow and Cape Tribulation during his 1770 exploration of Australia's east coast. The story is that, during Cook's exploration of the east coast, his ship, the Endeavour, struck a reef and almost sank.  The accident set him back by many weeks and as a result of his misfortune, Cook named features in this area with somber names - Cape Tribulation and Mount Sorrow.  (Not to be confused with the Mount Sorrow on the Forest Moon of Endor where the Ewoks roamed in Star Wars).

(C.S. Manish 2013)

The Site Manager, Peter Byrnes,was our guide for the rest of the day.

(C.S. Manish 2013)

Peter began the proceedings with a presentation about the services and features of the research facility.

(C.S. Manish 2013)

Peter described the various opportunities provided at the facility and the types of research done there.  He wasted no time in talking about the most attractive aspect of the site - the Canopy Crane (a lot more on that in just a little bit).  Numerous researchers have spent time at the site studying the flora and fauna of a lowland tropical rainforest.  Some of the aspects studied have been beetle assemblage (Biotropical, 2009, 41(3): 328–337), beetle guild feeding structure (Journal of Animal Ecology, 2012, 81:1086–1094), vertical stratification of small mammals (Wildlife Research, 2006, 33:571–576) and patchiness of epifolial fungi (Ecology, 2007 88(3):575–581) among others.  In fact a whole issue of Austral Ecology (Volume 32, Number 1, February 2007) was devoted entirely to research conducted at this site.

After the presentation, Peter took us on a guided tour of the rainforest, describing the unique features of the plants and animals that are unique to this part of the world.  The 1ha area covered by the canopy crane has 744 trees (>10cm dbh) representing more than 80 species of plants.

(Kinsley Shoup, Angela Proctor, Katherine Lederer, Victoria Vollmer, C.S. Manish, Sandra, Kinsley Shoup, 2013)

Apart from insects such as the ponerine ants, green tree ants, and wasps, animals such as the red-bellied snake, the coastal taipan (the 3rd most venomous land snake in the world), cassowaries, tree kangaroos, and feral pigs have also been spotted here.

(C.S. Manish 2013)

We then headed deeper and deeper into the forest until we reached the object of our tour - the Canopy Crane.

(Sandra 2013)

Quoting from the site website: The crane is a Liebherr 91 EC, freestanding construction tower crane (see below). The crane is 47 metres tall with a radius of 55 metres. It can rotate 360 degrees enabling access to 1 hectare of rainforest. A suspended basket (gondola or dogbox) is attached at the hook to carry personnel into the canopy.

(http://www.jcu.edu.au/canopycrane/about/JCUPRD_046917.html)

Personnel access the gondola at ground level. Movement of the gondola to a specific position requires rotation of the entire jib in a horizontal plane until the jib is above the position desired. The trolley is then moved along the jib and the hook and gondola are lowered to the desired position.

The site is part of the International Crane Canopy Network, a consortium established in 1997 to support research facilities that provided such facilities to access the canopy with minimal damage to it.  As of now, there are 12 such canopy cranes distributed around the world allowing researchers to study the canopy from above.

The crane allows researchers and other personnel uninhibited access to various levels of the canopy without actually harming or disturbing the environment directly.  Since it can move both vertically and horizontally, the crane operator is able to maneuver the gondola such that one can access any place in the canopy that is accessible only from above.  The gondola is operated by one person and can fit three more in it.

(Sandra 2013)

 Everyone must wear a full body harness and lanyard (attached to the safety rail in the gondola) since it is open from the waist up.  The crane operator Andrew ensured everyone in the gondola wore a full body harness and lanyard (attached to the safety rail in the gondola).

(Katherine Lederer 2013)

As one traveled up the canopy, the light levels increased...

(Victoria Vollmer 2013)

...until we were treated to fabulous views that clearly showed how the forest is nestled between the ocean to the east and the mountain range to the west.

(Kinsley Shoup 2013)

 And above the canopy, we were able to get a clearer view of Mount Sorrow.

(Kinsley Shoup 2013)

Even a panoramic capture of the view does not do justice to how impressive it really was.

(Trey Cusick III 2013)

Since location one's position in the canopy is of importance for research purposes, it is determined by using the bearings according to a compass located on the main frame of the crane.

(Angie Proctor 2013)

If you are squeamish about heights, then the gondola ride is not for you.  (Note the shadow of the gondola in the photo below).

(C.S. Manish 2013)

Click on the video below to get a taste of how it feels to slowly move up and beyond the canopy in the crane.

Andrew has been taking people up for many years and, in the whole time, he has seen the tree kangaroo only about 20 times.  Tree kangaroos are specifically adapted to living in the canopy and do not do as well on the ground.  That day, folks on all 4 trips got to see a pair of tree kangaroos at close range.  Can you spot the pair in this picture?

(Victoria Vollmer 2013)

 Here's a closer look at one of them.

(Trey Cusick III 2013)

From the DRO, we headed to Whet, a restaurant located (seemingly) in the middle of the rainforest, for lunch.  On the way there, we crossed a succession of small streams that are home to crocodiles and, therefore, not as inviting as they seem.  (There are no crocodiles in the photo below, though).

(C.S. Manish 2013)

Sitting in the outdoor restaurant, listening to the sounds of the jungle was a great way to take a break.

(C.S. Manish 2013)

After lunch we made our way towards Cape Tribulation, more specifically, the Dubuji Boardwalk.  Located just south of Cape Tribulation, the Dubuji Boardwalk has been set up through a coastal mangrove swamp eventually ending up at the coastline that features Myall Beach.

(C.S. Manish 2013)

Peter introduced us to the various organisms unique this habitat, including the peppermint stick insect that releases a spray that smells (tastes?) like peppermint when it is threatened. Richie was the only one brave enough to try to find out it this was true (it is).

(C.S. Manish 2013)

(C.S. Manish 2013; Peppermint stick insect)

As the boardwalk winds its way through the mangroves, it is shaded by a dense canopy of enormous fan palms, strangler figs and vines. All along the way there are helpful signs that describe the flora, fauna, and history of the region.

(Victoria Vollmer 2013)

One of the most fascinating plants we saw was the strangler fig.  The seeds of this type of tree germinates in crevices or on branches and drops roots that reach the ground and eventually surround the host tree, even as it grows towards the canopy.  If it is successful, the strangler fig eventually ends up killing the host tree while it thrives, albeit with a hollow heart trunk.

(Victoria Vollmer 2013; Strangler fig in action)

A small creek flows through the mangroves, providing a habitat that is an interesting mix of fresh water and salt water. 

(Sandra 2013)

Eventually the boardwalk ends up at Myall Beach, located just south of Cape Tribulation (seen in the distance).

(Victoria Vollmer 2013)

 It was odd to see such a long stretch of pristine looking beach completely devoid of human activity or influence.

(Emily Kinder 2013)

The answer was revealed when we saw this very helpful sign.  Those salt water crocodiles are everywhere it seems!

(Victoria Vollmer 2013)

We spent a few minutes wandering along the edge of the beach, not venturing anywhere near the water (yes, the ocean is in that direction).

(Katherine Lederer 2013)

We bid adieu to Peter at this point and headed back towards Cairns.  But not before making a detour to Mossman Gorge, located among the hills in the distance.

(Sandra 2013)

The Mossman Gorge area is reputed to contain the oldest, continuously surviving rainforest on earth.  The biodiversity of the area is incredible, with one hectare of land containing as many as 30,000 species of plants and animals.

(Trey Cusick III 2013)

By the time we reached the area, it was almost closing time.  The Park officials allowed to go in for a brief while and we took full advantage, stopping en route to the high point at a place where the stream was accessible and inviting.

(C.S. Manish 2013)

All day, the threat of crocodiles and other threatening circumstances had stopped the students from wandering into streams and beaches.  Finally, at Mossman Gorge, they got the chance to indulge themselves and had a good time cooling down after a long, fun-filled day.  A perfect way to end a great day.

(C.S. Manish 2013)

A long-ish drive later, we were back in Cairns, ready to take on Day 8.  Waiting for us was a date with this fellow...

(C.S. Manish 2013)